From kimchi to K-pop to K-dramas, the unstoppable K-wave is here to stay and with it, the spread of Korean tattoo artists and designs. These days South Korean tattooists are traveling around the world as guest tattoo artists, some establishing private studios abroad, and clients from all over the world are flying into South Korea to be tattooed by their favorite tattoo artist.
I myself have gotten several tattoos during the three years that I have lived here, which I will talk more about in a future series of posts.
Background
Since a South Korean Constitutional Court Ruling in 1992, only medically-licensed practitioners can legally give tattoos in South Korea, citing the health risks that come with injecting foreign substances into your body. But typically, these professionals aren’t the ones giving the delicate linework or bold colored painting-like tattoos that you have probably seen on your social media.
Historically, tattoos have been associated with gangs, so they were taboo for many years, especially among the older generation. On top of that, there is a Confucian belief that altering the body that your parents gave you is disrespectful towards them, which is very important in a collectivist society where filial piety is highly valued.
Despite this, over the last decade, tattoos have seen a resurgence among young South Koreans. It is estimated that about 3 million people in South Korea have at least one tattoo. If semi-permanent cosmetic tattoos are included, such as microblading, then that number goes up to about 13 million according to the National Assembly Research Service (NARS).
Cosmetic Tattoos (AKA Semi-Permanent Makeup)
These cosmetic tattoos are occasionally performed by the aforementioned medically-licensed professionals and can be done on your eyebrows, eyeliner, lips, and even your hairline. But like regular tattoos, cosmetic tattoos are for the most part done unlicensed and thus, illegally.
The most popular procedure is microblading, which is a semi-permanent eyebrow tattoo. As the name suggests, it is done with a small blade instead of a machine, which gives the result a more natural look. This is different from the popular permanent bold eyebrow tattoos that are gaining popularity in the West.
I also have gotten microblading done by a friend of mine that is training to become a cosmetic tattoo artist, and no, she does not have a medical license. Please note that she was supervised and coached by a professional cosmetic tattoo artist in a studio, I did not do this in her basement.
Microblading done by Ain Beauty Lab
Translation: Insufficient amount of hair (left), Hair growth effect (right)
The Consequences of an Illegal Tattoo Studio
So where are people getting non-cosmetic tattoos from? Well, they are likely getting it from one of the thousands of illegal tattoo studios hidden across the country, which are comparable to speakeasies sans the alcohol. Unlike other countries, tattoo artists in South Korea usually cannot hang a sign or proudly display their designs in their windows.
If you’ve ever been to Hongdae or Itaewon, you’ve likely walked past several tattoo studios and didn’t realize it. But on a very rare occasion, you may have seen a tattoo studio sign or two dangling on the side of a building. I asked a Korean friend about them once, and all she said was to avoid going to those sorts of studios.
The authorities don’t actively hunt for these hidden tattoo parlors, but if they get a report, they have to take action. Unlicensed tattoo artists can be fined upwards of 1 million won and sentenced to at least two years of prison.
Kim Do-yoon, a world-renowned South Korean tattoo artist also known as Doy, was fined 5 million won ($3,800 as of July 2022) this year after a video of him tattooing a famous Korean actress went viral. He has tattooed a number of celebrities, even those from Hollywood such as Brad Pitt, Lily Collins, and Steven Yeun.
Getting Clients
If they can’t advertise their shops on the street, then how do they get customers? Tattoo artists gain a following through a social media presence and word of mouth. Their contact information is very public, but they often don’t give you the address to their studio until a day or so before your appointment.
Even though their studios are secret and are technically unregulated, you don’t have to worry about hygiene as these artists are still very professional, always keep their workspace clean, and use brand-new needles.
My theory is that because these operations are illegal and the consequences are severe, Korean tattoo artists actually work harder to maintain cleanliness and only put out their best work every time.
Of course, working underground has its drawbacks as many tattoo artists can be subject to exploitation and harassment from bad customers, so learning how to screen customers is also crucial in the Korean tattoo industry.
There isn’t really a science to it and every artist’s method is different, but first impressions are very important. When I was getting a tattoo from Yoon, she explained that she gets a vibe from potential clients when they first message her.
Apparently, people reveal a lot about what kind of client they could potentially be just from the first interactions through email or Kakao Talk, a Korean messaging app. For example, if they send a message just asking for the rate without giving any details of the design, that’s a red flag. If they’re rude, that’s another red flag.
Of course, these are also common red flags outside of South Korea that can cost you an appointment, but the difference is that you are almost guaranteed to be turned away here. Though it seems straightforward and basic, screening can really save the tattooist trouble in the future as some customers may refuse to pay or threaten to report the tattoo artist to the police.
Perceptions of Tattoos Today
Tattoos still hold a stigma today, as the media would go so far as to censor some celebrities’ tattoos if they appear on TV. However, public opinion of tattoos is shifting favorably, particularly among the younger generation. I myself have received a lot of compliments and curious questions from Koreans in their 20s and 30s, but I will get unabashed stares and glares from older Korean people when I ride the subway.
According to a 2021 Gallup Korea poll with more than a thousand Korean respondents, 81% of respondents in their 20s and 60% of respondents in their 30s and 40s are in favor of non-medical tattoo legalization. 70% of respondents felt that it is unnecessary to censor tattoos on TV.
Despite the changes in attitude, recently the Constitutional Court reaffirmed its stance against tattooing by practitioners who do not have a medical license. The Court asserted that tattooing is “an act of medical service,” and not an art form. Several legislative bills geared toward the legalization of non-medical tattooing have been proposed since 2020, so there will be future court rulings to address. But at the moment, it seems that legalization is out of reach.
The Presence and Diversity of Tattoo Artists
Due to the legal restrictions of this career path, the exact number of tattoo artists in South Korea is unknown, but the NARS estimates it to be about 50,000, plus an additional 300,000 aestheticians that give cosmetic tattoos.
Among these artists, you can find a wide variety of styles and aesthetics to match your taste. But like in every other country, there are trends. These days, elegant, intricate fine-line work and vibrant colors have been gaining popularity, and it is gaining traction across the globe just like other aspects of Korean pop culture.
Tiger and Butterflies by Masa Island
Red Norigae by Seolhee
But if delicate linework isn’t your cup of tea, you can also find plenty of other styles too, ranging from bold blackwork to minimalist hand-poked tattoos.
Blue Dragons by Saki
Handpoked Buddha by Cheonghoon
If you would like to discover a variety of different South Korean tattoo artists, this blog will be featuring a number of talented tattooists every week to spread the word about these hidden gems. I also have a post about the do’s and don’ts for booking an appointment with a Korean tattoo artist.
Please note that permission to share these pictures was granted by every tattoo artist mentioned in this article. That being said, please do not repost the artist’s work without their permission.
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Thank you 🙂